Via ferrata topographies

Starting point: car park at Dachstein south face cable car

Approach: from the car park to the south face hut. From here ascend the path in the direction of Tor-Bachlalm , after 100 m branch off to the right (steep track, unmarked). Path to start of Dachstein south face. Easily accessible via a 100 m high, tiered section of face, red dots on an overgrown grass slope. Up this and from a clear sign left into a saddle. From the saddle left, at first slightly downhill, tracks in the overhang under the south wall (steep path).

Dachstein super ferrata: "Anna", in conjunction with "The Johann" and the "Schulteranstieg", or shoulder ascent, to the Hoher Dachstein – at 1,200 metres in altitude of pure via ferrata, the via ferrata route is one of the longest via ferrata tours in the Alps.

Difficulty: D in places, often C/D and C, rarely easier.

Equipment: full via ferrata equipment and helmet (see above). The fields of old, compacted snow on the approach in spring should not be underestimated (lightweight crampons and ice axe).

Approach to base: from car park at the Dachstein Glacier cable car, on marked trails to the south face hut.

Approach to wall: 20 mins on well-marked paths from the valley station to the Dachstein south face hut (1,871 m). From the hut take the Pernerweg in the direction of Tor, until you branch off to the right at a signpost (Anna-Klettersteig) to the striking Mitterstein. Follow the signs along the path (marked red) to the start beneath the wall.

Start altitude: 1,800 m

Descent: After the end of the climb either continue left and continue ascending via the Johann via ferrata (E) or down via the Johann approach route (A/B in places) to the south face hut and on to the valley station.

Best time of year: July, August, September, October – Care required with the snowfields when approaching and descending. There is a risk of falling when these are compacted (crampons and ice axe are then required).

Equipment/rack: Full via ferrata set, protective helmet and possibly crampons for traversing the Edelgrieß glacier. Additional safety ropes for those with less sure footing and children.

Difference in altitude/time: Crossing the length of the via ferrata (Edelgrießhöhe to Gruberscharte): 4 km/450 metres in altitude (including short climbs)/3 hours; overall: Hunerkogel - Edelgrießhöhe - Ramsau via ferrata - Guttenberghaus - Ramsau: approx. 13 km/ 6-7 hours; in the opposite direction (with ascent to Guttenberghaus) around 1.5 hours more. With ascent to Edelgrieß corrie 2 hours more (plus 810 metres in altitude).

Starting point: Dachstein Glacier cable car Hunerkogel station, 2,687 m; or also valley station, 1,680 m; or also Hotel Feisterer, 1,150 m.

Route: The via ferrata begins on the Niederer Gamsfeldspitze (2,611 m, 2 hours). Follow the safety lines, mostly along the ridge, sometimes just below on the south or north side, to the Hohe Gamsfeldspitze (2,655 m). Continuous climbing up and down until you reach the Schmiedstock, after descending the south side you come to the steepest and nicest part of the tour in sporting terms, the "Gelbe Rampe". Very steep and exposed, sometimes using crampons in the wind gap to the east of the Schmiedstock, becoming increasingly easy to the summit of the Scheichenspitze (2,667 m). Superb views of the Hohe and Niedere Tauern at the end of the Ramsau via ferrata (2-3 hours)

Descent: Exit by the Gruberscharte, then walk along the hiking trail to the Guttenberghaus and from there descend to Ramsau.

Miscellaneous:

The latest via ferrata to be established that is accessible via the Dachstein Glacier cable car meets all the expectations of a fantastic, modern via ferrata and was laid out in autumn 2004 by Ramsau mountain guide Hans Prugger, with the help of his mountain guiding colleagues.

Difficulty:

B to C, some sections C/D and D; primarily in the first, very steep wall section, which is very exposed in parts and constantly strength sapping.

Equipment/rack: Complete via ferrata set, protective helmet and possibly crampons for traversing the Edelgrieß Glacier. Additional safety ropes for less sure-footed climbers.

Difference in altitude/climbing time: 400 metres in altitude to the peak, 350 m of which anchored/2-2.5 hours

Route: Starting from the Koppenkar corrie, which is best reached from the Dachstein Glacier cable car mountain station, reached via the Rosmariestollen and the Edelgrieß Glacier, the new Irg via ferrata leads over the south Ostsporn and continues over the north ridge to the summit. Very nice mountain for views very near the Hunerkogel mountain station, with one blot on the horizon  –an Austrian army transmitter and equipment lift is located on the summit.

The descent is via the "Koppenkarstein west ridge" via ferrata, which has existed for many years, over the Niederer Koppenkarstein to the Austriascharte and then on to the Schladming Glacier and/or the Dachstein Glacier cable car mountain station.

Miscellaneous: The "Jubiläums Klettersteig", or Jubilee Via Ferrata, laid out in 1991 over the south ridge to the Eselstein, fulfils all practised via ferrata enthusiasts' requirements – sunny location, steep and varied climb site, short approach (from Guttenberghaus), easy descent. A perfect via ferrata for advanced practitioners.

Difficulty: C to D, occasionally A and B

Equipment: Complete via ferrata set, protective helmet

Requirements: Via ferrata harness or safety ropes, Alpine experience

Starting point: Guttenberghaus approx. 2.5 hours

Approach: A well-marked hiking trail (no. 616) leads from Hotel Feisterer to the Guttenberghaus. From here head towards Gruberscharte on the high-level hiking trail no. 618 and branch off after about 20 minutes (signposted Klettersteig/via ferrata). Progress right up the scree slope to the start (signpost).

Route: Go up the left of a gulley at risk of rock falls (B), cross crumbly rock to the right and over the first steep ridge incline (C/D). This is followed by a flat ridge section, a short but steep incline (D) and a short ridge to the big tower. Bear left over shelf (C/D) to the striking, steep chimney (C) and ultimately up the very exposed section (D) to the top of the tower. Cross the flat ridge (A) and up the last steep incline (C/D) to the exit. Keep left along the west spine and you will soon reach the summit.

Descent: In the east flank of the Eselstein (steps, cairns) to marked trail 674 and across the Feisterscharte back to the Guttenberghaus and descend the valley to Ramsau.

Miscellaneous: Relatively simple, easily reached summit, whose west ridge (originally 2nd difficulty) has now been almost completely anchored. Very nice views of the Dachstein range and eastern Alps.

Difficulty: A and A/B, some sections B

Equipment: via ferrata harness

Approach: 15-20 minutes. From the glacier cable car mountain station, in an easterly direction over the top of the Schladming Glacier, briefly downwards , then a slight rise keeping to the right (mostly clearly marked) to the rimaye and to the start of the anchoring a little to the right of the "Rosmarien-Stollen" (leads to the other side of the mountain and is reached by a ladder). Or to the clearly visible anchoring on the ridge, this only leads to the air navigation triangle and on to the Austriascharte.

Route: Ascend the north side keeping to the left (A and B) to the Grathöhle and in a short time (descending slightly) to the "Austriascharte". Now continue along the ridge or move onto the flanks occasionally, no problems with orientation for reaching the summit with the transmitter (very well anchored throughout, A and A/B, a short B section).

Descent: 1 hour. As for the ascent return to the Schladming Glacier and climb back up to the Dachstein Glacier cable car mountain station.

Miscellaneous:

The Hoher Dachstein's summit connects to three via ferrate.
From the east: shoulder (Schulter) ascent (B, 2 hours)
From the north: rimaye (Randkluft) ascent (B, 1 hour)
From the west: west ridge (A/B, 1.5 hours)

The Randkluft ascent was climbed by J. Ramsauer and F. Linertner as long ago as 1841. It is still the most popular route today. The Randkluft ascent is secured with metal hand and footholds, the shoulder and west ridge are anchored throughout with steel rope.

It is essential that climbers only climb the via ferrata due to the great risk of rock falls!

Difficulty: A/B, B

Equipment: Via ferrata harness, protective helmet, strong climbing boots, crampons and ice axe if there is ice.

Requirements: Via ferrata harness or safety ropes, Alpine experience, sometimes a little patience due to the hordes of people.

Starting point: Dachsteinwarte Hütte for the shoulder and rimaye. Just a few minutes from here to the start of the shoulder, approx. 30 minutes to the rimaye. The starting point for the west ridge is the Adamek hut on the Gosau Glacier.

Approaches: Shoulder: gentle climb in NW direction to buttress sticking out from shoulder. Care required when transitioning from glacier to rock.

Rimaye: past the shoulder start, climb up over the glacier (watch out for crevasses) to the bottom end of the gorge. Care required at the rimaye!

West ridge: from the Adamek hut in a south-easterly direction across the Gosau Glacier, then on to the upper col.

Route:
Shoulder: over the south-east spur to the shoulder (horizontal ridge section on the east ridge), continue over the "Mecklenburgerband" to the gorge, which is where the Randkluft climb starts. This continues in the gorge section to the summit.
Randkluft: first keep to the right for approx. 15 m, then the climb runs in the gorge area to the summit. Take care on loose stones!
West ridge: across the ridge which is wide in places, to the summit.

Descent: the shortest way is the Randkluft descent. If it is congested we recommend the descent via the less steep west ridge and then via the Gosau Glacier (some crevices), back over the  Steinerscharte to the Hallstätt Glacier and back to the Dachstein Glacier cable car mountain station.

Difficulty: Mainly A and A/B; short sections up to a maximum of B after the Kleiner Gjaidstein when ascending to the Hoher Gjaidstein

Equipment/rack: basic via ferrata equipment

Approach: From the cable car mountain station on the Hunerkogel, follow the marked trail across the glacier to the Gjaidstein saddle beneath the mountain rescue hut.

Route: Easy climb along the marked via ferrata and the anchorings, gently rising to the Kleiner Gjaidstein (2,737 m). Then a short upward section on the ridge and continue along the ridge to the Hoher Gjaidstein (2,794 m). Along the ridge to the Gjaidstein saddle Kleiner Gjaidstein 500 m Gjaidstein saddle Hoher Gjaidstein 1,500 m.

Overall grading: easy climb that requires surefootedness.

Wonderful mountain close to the Hunerkogel mountain station for views. Further hike to Krippenstein possible.

Descent: 50 mins. As for ascent.

Miscellaneous: the last 200 metres in altitude of the Hunerscharte ascent have been anchored and it is not of great importance as a via ferrata; it does, however, represent the easiest, but still physically demanding, way of reaching the high glacier plateau (apart from the cable car, of course).

Difficulty: mostly A and A/B, some places (exit ramp) B

Equipment/rack: basic via ferrata equipment

Route: From the hut at the south wall of the Dachstein, follow the marked trail in a north-easterly direction for approx. 2 hours to the start. The climb takes you from the south wall hut, along a spine, upwards to the right into the Schwadering corrie. At the top of this corrie an anchored rock climb leads over a section of slabs to the Hunerscharte and onto the glacier. Time: approx. 1 hour.

Descent: as for the ascent or travel down the valley by the Dachstein Glacier cable car.

The new "Sky Walk via ferrata" really does take you "towards the sky" and is bound to excite even the most demanding climber who has got used to difficult via ferrate.

Lots of strength in the arms, courage and experience are required, though, to master the new sports via ferrata and to have fun at the same time – so it is not for occasional climbers or novices!

Description: After the long initial crossing from the Hunerscharte via ferrata, it very quickly becomes difficult, the continuous difficulty means there is very little opportunity for rest. A great deal of stamina is required, a short fixing (short additional sling with via ferrata carabiner or 1-2 express slings) is highly recommended for sparing the arms. Climbing shoes (without a profile) or special via ferrata shoes (no profile on the shoe toe) are advantageous for better grip on the footholds.

The approach to the start is a descent and leads from the mountain station down to the Hunerscharte and then over the slab ramp (A-B) at the top of the "Hunerscharte via ferrata" descending towards the "Sky Walk-Klettersteig" turn-off (20–25 mins in total).

Although there is a small roping position at the start of the long initial crossing, we recommend putting on your via ferrata set at the Hunerscharte.

The new "Sky Walk" via ferrata will certainly exert a great attraction for extreme ferratists and fits seamlessly into the ranks of superb Dachstein via ferrate.

Difficulties: Difficulty: extremely difficult. Several D/E sections and longer D sections, seldom easier. Parts of the middle section are extremely exposed and very strenuous.

Overall challenge: extreme

Particular hazards: Risk of rock falls throughout the middle section caused by preceding climbers. Watch out for loose rocks, especially in the final section (traverse and exit) and don't cause a rock fall.

Best time of year: June-October

Approach: 25 mins descent from the mountain station or climb via the "Hunerscharte" from the valley station (1.5 hours)

Ascent: 1-2 hours/150 metres in altitude (climbing route approx. 260 m)

Descent: none (exit at the mountain station)

Total time required: 1.5-2.5 hours

Aspect: south east to south

Anchoring: super; steel rope throughout, some foot/hand bolts

Fun factor: super

Stone: limestone

Possible retreat/discontinuation: none

Orientation: easy

Children/Adolescents: from 16 years.

Equipment: via ferrata set, helmet, moderately sturdy climbing boots or shoes, possibly additional short rope to relieve arms or for resting.

Established/maintained: July 2006/Planai-Hochwurzenbahnen GmbH, Hans Prugger and Alex Seebacher

A small, sporty and clever via ferrata near the valley and therefore very well suited to climbers with less stamina and Alpine experience. The approach and descent are short, the via ferrata is not very long, but tasty, and the Silberkarklamm gorge itself is also very scenic. If you need another thrill after the climb, we recommend the "Schleierwasserfall-Leiter" (Veil waterfall ladder), which is partly overhanging, in the gorge!

How to get here: from Schladming on the Ramsau plateau or from Haus im Ennstal to Weißenbach and on into the Ramsau plateau. Roughly halfway between Weißenbach and Ramsau village.

Approach: 15 mins. From the car park continue up the steep road to the entrance to the Silberkarklamm gorge (entrance fee payable) and once in the gorge continue upwards for approx. 5 minutes to the striking rope bridge at the start (benches). Descend the access road to Silberkarklamm ("Lodenwalker" sign board). Large car park at the mouth of the gorge.

Route: The rope bridge provides access to the first steel rope anchorings. See sketch for precise route.

Descent: 30 mins. From the exit follow the little red marked trail (initially uphill for a short while, then across and down) to the hiking trail (from here you can either climb to the beautifully situated Silberkar hut in around 20 minutes or descend to the left to the gorge climb).

Difficulty: Very difficult. Some sections D, other mostly around C; exposed and soil covered in parts.

Equipment: Via ferrata set, helmet, moderately sturdy climbing boots.

Children/adolescents: from 12 years.

Miscellaneous:

The Siega via ferrata was opened at the end of July 2008. During its two week construction 260 m of steel cable and numerous foot pegs were erected. The classic sports via ferrata dispenses with modern design features such as rope bridges and the like. The climb takes its name from Sigmund, who owns the Stangalm.  

Difficulty: One part C/D, most around C or B.

Equipment/rack: Complete via ferrata equipment and helmet, possibly climbing gloves. Additional safety rope for weaker climbers and children.

Characteristics: The Kala adolescent via ferrata was built after the children's via ferrata to its left. The climb offers more and also steeper climbing than the Kali, plus there is a flying fox zip wire (which must only be used with a mountain guide) at this climbing facility. Very interesting for experienced children too, on a safety rope.

One short B/C section, others mostly easier.

First climber/maintained by:
Tourismusverband Ramsau am Dachstein (built by Hans Prugger)

Easy, anchored routes. Flat (long) or vertical (short) ladders and rungs, mostly in terrain that is not very steep. Isolated points can be exposed, but easy to climb (e.g. ledges, small suspension bridges). The terrain is also easy to cross without anchorings (exception: ladders over small ledges) and has good hand and footholds. Generally no via ferrate self support is required for sure-footed climbers who do not suffer from vertigo. A short safety rope may be required for children and novices.

Already somewhat steeper rock terrain, with some exposed sections requiring small steps. Long vertical ladders and rungs, foot pegs or chains. Some sections already arduous and exhausting. The technical rock-climbing difficulties can extend to 2 and 3 without anchorings. Even many reasonably experienced mountain climbers use basic via ferrate equipment. Via ferrate equipment is definitely advisable for novices and children, as is a short safety rope on longer climbs.

Steep to very steep rocky terrain. For the most part sections requiring small steps, which are almost always exposed. Overhanging ladders, rungs and foot pegs, which may be more widely spaced (seeming especially so for shorter people and children). Often vertical sections anchored by steel rope only. Partly very exhausting. Without anchorings some anchored sections would be graded 3rd or 4th difficulty. Longer ascents with this degree of difficulty are already classed as major via ferrata undertakings. It is recommended that novices and children be roped to an experienced partner. Safety ropes are also recommended for experienced mountain climbers.

Vertical terrain, often overhanging too. Many of the rungs and foot pegs are very widely spaced. Very exposed and steep rock, which in most cases is only anchored by a steel rope. Longer, vertical or overhanging sections, which require an appropriate degree of arm strength and also good, overall physical fitness. Sometimes combined with easy climbs (1-2) which have to be mastered without anchorings. Complete via ferrata equipment is obligatory even for the very experienced (climbing shoes with a profiled rubber sole very advantageous). Unsuitable for novices and the less experienced. Usually climbed with climbers roped together.

Requires extremes of strength and sure-footedness (grippy climbing shoes) and absence of vertigo. This degree of difficulty is very rare where via ferrate are concerned. Roping obligatory, usually combined with climbing equipment. Otherwise all the same specifications as for "D", but to a greater extent.