CLIMBING TRAILS AND ROUTES ON THE DACHSTEIN
The Dachstein.
A high alpine paradise for mountaineers, mountain climbers and climbers.
The imposing rock falls of the Dachstein south face on the Enns Valley side are a stark contrast to the glaciers, corries and the unique high plateau "Am Stein" in the north.
From the mountain station (2,700 m) there are a variety of beckoning attractions.
The quality of every climbing tour always depends on the type of rock. Dachstein kalk is the most important type of rock of many mountain ranges in the Alps (e.g. Marmolada). Amongst expert climbers the name "Dachstein" stands for quality.
For an enlarged view of the map please click on the panoramic view below.
| The Johann | General:
"The Johann", as the climbing trail through the south face of the Dachsteinwarte is known, was contructed in 1999 by Ramsau mountain guides.
It is by far the most demanding on the south side of the Dachstein area.
The climbing trail is approx. 800 m long with 600 m high walls. Alpine experience is necessary to reach the trail.
In early summer crampons are useful for the approach.
The trail itself is exceedingly well secured with a continuous steel cable of 30 mm in diameter.
Only recommended in fine weather. |  | | Level of difficulty: D/E |
Equipment:
Chest harness, spring-loaded mountaineering cams, helmet, sturdy mountain boots (crampons and ice axe) as well as climbing ropes. | Requirements: Alpine experience, strength for 3 pull-ups, stamina for approx. 5 hours | | Period for climbing: June to mid-October, best time mid-July to mid-September | | Starting point: Car park of the Dachstein cable car | Ascent:
From the car park to the Südwandhütte. From here take the path down towards the Tor-Bachlalm, after approx. 100 m turn off to the right (unmarked climbing trail). Entry path to the Dachstein south wall.
Along an approx. 100 m high, well-worn structured wall step, red dots, on an overgrown grass slope. Upwards and turn left at a clear marking into a saddle. From the saddle to the left gently downhill at first, into the Schutt corries under the Dachstein-Südwand (climbing) trail. |
 | | | Entry: directly to the left of the distinctive rock needle (start of the securings, roping up point) | | Route: see ascent plan | | Time: ascent (2 hours to the start, 3 hours climbing trail) | | Peaks: Dachsteinwarte, 2,740 m. possibility to climb onto the Hoher Dachstein, 2,995 m, over 'Schulter' climbing trail or 'Randkluft' ascent, approx 1.5 hours | Descent:
Exit directly at the Seetalerhütte on the Dachsteinwarte. Approx. 30 minutes to the cable car top station. Last journey down at approx. 5.10 p.m. |
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| The Ramsau Climbing Trail | General:
The Ramsau Climbing Trail runs in the ridge area between the Edelgriesshöhe and the Gruberscharte.
On this route you climb the Gamsfeldspitz, 2,655m and the Scheichenspitz, 2,664m.
This trail offers fabulous views of most of the Eastern Alps. |  | Until late spring snow still lying (particularly on the north slopes).
Crampons may be necessary for crossing the Edelgriess Glacier. | Level of difficulty:
Nearly continuous A/B to B, some passages B/C und C, mostly combined with extreme exposedness. | Equipment:
Complete climbing set, helmet and possible crampons for crossing the Edelgriess Glacier. For unsteady climbers and children addtional rope securings required. | Height difference / Time:
Length of climbing trail - crossing (Edelgriess level to Gruberscharte): 4 km / 450 Hm / 3 hours; in total: Hunerkogel - Edelgriess level - Ramsau climbing trail - Guttenberghaus - Ramsau: approx. 13 km / 6-7 Std.; vice-versa (with ascent to the Guttenberghaus) somewhat 1.5 hours longer. With ascent over Edelgriesskar 2 hrs. long (plus 810 Hm). | Starting point:
Mountain station Hunerkogel of the Dachstein cable car, 2,687m; or valley station, 1,680; or from Hotel Feisterer, 1,150 m. | Route:
Start of the climbing trail on the Niedere Gamsfeldspitze 2,611 m (2h) Follow the securings, mostly on the ridge, sometimes on the south or north side just underneath the Hohe Gamsfeldspitze 2,655 m. Climbing up and down, as far as the is Schmiedstock, after a descent on the south side the steepest and most demanding part of the tour is the "Yellow Ramp". Very steep and exposed partly with aid of iron grips in the Scharte to the east of the Schmiedstockes and becoming easier to the peak of the Scheichenspitze 2,667m. At the end of the Ramsau climbing trail, fabulous view of the Hohe and Niedere Tauern (2-3 hrs) | Descent:
Exit by the Gruberscharte then walk along the footpath to the Guttenberghaus from there descent down to Ramsau. |
| Klettersteig Irg | General:
The latest climbing trail creation in the Dachstein cable car catchment area does justice to all demands of a modern, solid climbing trail which was designed in autumn 2004 by the Ramsau mountain guide Hans Prugger with help from mountain guide colleagues. |  | Level of diffuculty:
B to C, some passages C/D und D; above all in the first very steep wall, in parts very exposed and constantly demanding. | Equipment:
Complete climbing set, helmet and possible crampons for crossing the Edelgriess Glacier. For unsteady climbers and children addtional rope securings required. |
Height differnce / Climbing time:
To the peak 400 Hm, of which 350 Hm secured / 2-2.5 hrs. | Route:
Starting from the Koppenkar, which is reached from the mountain station of the Dachstein Glacier over the Rosmariestollen and the Edelgriess glacier, the new climbing trail leads over the south-east spur and onward over the north ridge to the peak.
Very beautiful views right near the Hunerkogel mountain station with one "blemish" (on the peak there is a transmitter belonging to the Austrian Army with goods cable car. |
 | | | The descent is over the long-standing "Koppenkarstein west ridge" climbing trail, over the Niedere Koppenkarstein to the Austriascharte and onward to the Schladminger Glacier and mountain station of the Dachstein cable car. |
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| Eselstein Jubilee Climbing Trail | General:
The "Jubilee Climbing Trail" constructed in 1991 over the south ridge on the Eselstein (also marked as the Feisterkarspitze) fulfills all demands of experienced climbing trial fans: sunny location, steep and varied climb, short approach (from Guttenberghaus), smooth descent.
An ideal climbing trail for the discerning climbers.
|  | Level of difficulty:
C to D, in parts A and B | Equipment:
Complete climbing set, helmet | Requirements:
Climbing securings or rope securing. Alpine experience | | Starting point: Guttenberghaus approx. 2 1/2 hours | How to get there:
From the Hotel Feisterer a well-marked path (No. 616) leads to the Guttenberghaus towards the Gruberscharte on the high footpath No. 618 and after 20 mins. turn-off (signpst: climbing trail) up the scree track to the right to the entry point (signpost) | Route:
Up to the left of a gully at risk of rock fall (B), crumbling crossing to the right and upwards over the first steep part (C/D). Then there's a flat ridge, a short but steep upward part (D) and a short ridge to the gutter-like tower. Over slabs, keeping to the left (C/D) into the marked, steep chimney intersection, (C) and for the last part very exposed (D) onto the tower peak. Over the flat ridge (A) and up the last steep part (C/D) to the exit. Keep to the left of the west ridge and you shortly come to the peak. | Descent:
In east side of the Eselstein to the marked path No. 674 and over the Feisterscharte back to the Guttenberghaus as well as valley descent to Ramsau. |
| Westgrat am Koppenkarstein | General:
Relatively easy peak to reach (originally level 2 of difficulty) now almost totally secured. Very beautiful views of the Dachstein range and eastern Alps. | | Level of difficulty: A and A/B, some passages B | | Equipment: climbing securings | How to get there:
15 - 20 minutes. From the Glacier cable car mountain station in an easterly direction over the Schladminger Glacier slightly downhill then keeping the right climbing slightly (mostly clear tracks) 'Randkluft' and to the start of the securings somewhat to the right of the "Rosemary Gallery" (which leads to the other side of the mountain and is reached over a ladder). Or to the well visible securings on the ridge, these only lead as far as the flight safety board and onward to the Austriascharte. | Route:
Climb up to the left of the north side (A und B) to the ridge cave and shortly (slightly downhill) you come to the "Austria Scharte". Now keep along the ridge sometimes detouring into the flanks, without orienteering problems to the peak with the transmitter (continuously well secured, A and A/B, a short passage B). | Descent:
1 hour. As ascent back to the Schladminger Glacier and up to the Dachstein cable car mountain station. |
| Climbing trail "Hoher Dachstein" | General:
The peak of the Hoher Dachstein can be reached on 3 climbing trails.
From the east: 'Schulter' (shoulder) ascent (B, 2 hours)
From the north: 'Randkluft' (edge crevice) ascent (B, 1 hour)
From the west: 'Westgrat' (west ridge (A/B, 1.5 hours)
The 'Randkluft' ascent was climbed in 1841 by J. Ramsauer and F. Linertner. It is even today the most climbed route. The edge crevice ascent is secured with metal grips and foot stirrups, shoulder and west ridge are secured troughout with steel cable. Due to the high danger of rock fall keep to the climbing trails. | | Level of difficulty A/B, B | Equipment:
Climbing securings, helmet, sturdy boots, when icy crampons and pickaxe. | Requirements:
Climbing securings or rope securings, alpine experience, sometimes patience due to congestion. | Starting point:
For the 'Schulter'and 'Randkluft' Dachsteinwarte-Hütte. From here the entry point to the 'Schulter' is just a few minutes, 30 mins. to the 'Randkluft'. The starting point for the 'Westgrat' is the Adamekhütte on the Gosau Glacier. | How to get there:
Schulter: gently climbing in a north-westerly direction to the rock pillar coming down from the 'Schulter'. Be careful transfering from glacier to rock.
Randkluft: past the entry point to the 'Schulter', climbup over the glacier (watch out for crevices) to the bottom end of the peak gorge. Be careful by the 'Randkluft'.
Westgrat: from the Adamekhütte in a south-easterly direction over the Gosau Glacier into the upper 'Windlücke' (wind break). | Route:
Schulter: over the south-east pillar onto the 'Schulter' (horizontal burr on the east ridge), onward over the "Mecklenburgerband" into the peak gorge. Here it joins up with the 'Randkluft' ascent. This runs in the gorge area to the peak.
Randkluft: at first keep approx. 15 m to the right, then the climb runs up to the peak in the gorge area. Watch out for loose stones.
Westgrat: over the partly wide ridge to the peak. | Descent:
Shortest route is the 'Randkluft', in the event of congestion take the descent over the not so steep 'Westgrat' and then over the Gosau Glacier (crevices in parts) back over the Steinerscharte to the Hallstätter Glacier and back to the mountain station of the Dachstein cable car. |
| Klettersteig Small & Large Gjaidstein | General:
Easy climbing trail with spectacular panoramic views from the Hoher Dachstein to the Koppenkarstein. The climb leads of mostly not too steep south crest of the Hoher Gjaidstein, whereby the Small Gjaidstein is also traversed. | Level of difficulty:
Mostly A and A/B; short passages after the Small Gjaidstein climbing up to the Hoher Gjaidstein up to max. B. | Equipment: Basic climbing equipment | How to get there:
From the mountain station of the cable car at Hunerkogel over the glacier on the marked path to the Gjaidsteinsattel below the mountain rescue hut. | Route:
No problem with orientation - always follow the marked climb or the securings gently climbing to the Small Gjaidstein (2,737m). Thereafter downhill slights and along the crest to the Hoher Gjaidstein (2,794m). Ridge length of the Gjaidsteinsattel on the Small Gjaidstein 500 m
Gjaidsteinsattel Hoher Gjaidstein 1,500 m.
General rating: easy climb requiring sure-footedness.
Wonderful views near the Hunerkogel mountain station.
Possibility of continuing on to the Krippenstein. | | Descent: 50 mins. As ascent |
| Klettersteig Hunerschartesteig | General:
The ascent to the Hunerscharte is secured for the last 200 Hm and is a low-ranking climbing route, It is the easiest way, if not the most physically demanding way to get up onto the glacier plateau (with the exception of the cable car of course!). | Level:
Mostly A and A/B, some places (exit ramp) B | | Equipment: basic climbing equipment | Route:
From the Dachstein Südwandhütte take the marked path in a north-easterly direction for approx. 2 hours to the entry point. The climb leads from the Südwandhütte over a ridge to the right upwards into the Schwadering corrie. At the upper end of this corrie a secured rock path leads over a slab zone into the Hunterscharte and up onto the glacier. Time: approx. 1 hour | | Descent: as ascent or travel down on the Dachstein cable car. |
| Sky Walk Climbing Trail | "Sky Walk“ is true to its name, as seldom are you so near the heavens on a climbing trail as here.
The climb runs extremely exposed through the overhanging steep rock faces of the Hunerkogel, you can look for good places to rest in vain. The trail belongs to the most difficult in the Eastern Alps. In addition to a large portion of courage, you'll also need constant arm strength.
The finale of the Sky Walk climbing trail is a very airy, slightly overhanging pillar in the middle part of the wall. But even the entry pillar and the slab crossing are a challenge. Climbing trail beginners and the not-so strong mountaineers should keep well away from this route - otherwise they might find heaven nearer than they think.
| 
Buchtipp: "Extreme Klettersteige in den Ostalpen"; Alpinverlag: www.alpinverlag.at |
Description:
From the turn-off to the Hunerscharten climbing trail (B) at first easily (A), then somewhat more difficult (B/C) crossing slightly downhill on a sort of band to the first steep pillar. There very steep upwards and then easy overhanging climbing (C/D) to its end. Then there's a slab crossing (D), which joins up with a steep wall with a crevice (D). At the end of the slab you cross to the pillar and, extremely exposed, climb up higher (prolonged E!) until you come to a short left crossing again (D). Steeply upwards into the final wall (D), which once again joins with an easier crossing (C) . At the end over a ridge (B) in flat terrain to a barrier. Over the fence and up to the right to the Sky Walk Platform. | Addendum to level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult climbing trail. Only for good mountaineers | Note about the securings:
320 meter thick steel rope and footholds - very well secured. | Equipment:
Complete climbing equipment, climbing gloves and helmet | Approach to the wall:
On the Dachstein Glacier cable car to the mountain station and from there over a short climbing trail (C/D, the trail starts in the area of the rise to the valley descent, red-white-red markings), down to the Hunerscharte (under the goods cable car) and over the newly-renovated Hunerscharten climbing trail to the turn-off to the Sky Walk climbing trail (sign).
In the Hunerscharte you can also climb up to the glacier in an arch.
Approaching from the Türlwandhütte extneds the climbing time by about 2 hrs. |
 | | Height of entry point: 2565 m
Descent:
In a few steps back to the Sky Walk right by the mountain station of the Dachstein Glacier cable car.
Descent to the Türlwandhütte extends the descent time by 1 hour 40 mins.
Level of difficulty: E
Height difference: 170 metres
Total length: 320 metres |
|
New: Climbing trail "Hias"
In addition to "Johann" and "Irg" the Dachstein region now has a "Hias"!
 | | A brand-new (June 2006), small, sporty climbing trail near valley level and therefore suitable for less fit and not so experienced alpine climbers.
Approach and descent are short, the climbing trail itself is not very long, but hard and the Silberkarklamm is also particularly scenic.
Those looking for a "kick" afterwards, should try the "veiled waterfall ladder" (partly overhanging) in the gorge. |
| Hias Klettersteig | How to get there:
From Schladming to Ramsau or from Haus im Ennstal to Weissenbach and on to Ramsau. About half way between Weissenbach and Ramsau Ort there's a turn-off to the Silberkarklamm (signposted "Lodenwalker"). Large car park in front of the gorge. |  | Approach:
15 mins. from the car park steeply uphill to the entrance to the Silberkarklamm (entrance fee) and in the gorge approx. 5 mins. upwards to the prominent entry rope bridge (bench). | Route::
The rope bridge connects the "entrance" to the first steel cable securings. See ascent plan for detailed route description. | Descent:
30 min. from the exit point, follow the red marked climb (at first upwards, then crossing and downwards) to the footpath (from here either climb up approx. 20 mins. to the beautifully situated Silberkarhütte or down to the left to the gorge climb. | Level of difficulty:
Very difficult. Some passages D, otherwise mostly C; partly exposed and somewhat earthy. |
| General standard : medium | Particular dangers: none | | Best time of year: May - October | Fun factor: great | | Stone: lime-stone | Escape/abort routes: none | | Orientation: easy | Children/youths: over 12 years | Times / height differnce:
Approach: 15 mins. / 80 hm
Climbing trail: 50 mins. / 120 hm (250 m)
Descebt: 30 mins. / 190 hm
Total height difference: 190 hm
Total time: 1.5 hrs. | Exposure: west | Securings:
excellent; continuous steel cable, foot and hand holds, two steel cable bridges | Equipment:
Climbing set, helmet, sturdy mountain boots |
Safety precautions:
Due to its altitude and the fact its stands alone weather conditions can be very peculiar. The extreme changes in weather must be taken into consideration, the weather can change within minutes.
 | | Therefore each tour must be planned carefully. Beware of lightning on climbing trails.
Ensure you have the correct equipment (crampons, pickaxe, rope).
Alpine experience, correct securings on climbing trails, good physical condition and appropriate equipment are necessary. Timing details, levels of difficulty and further information from tourist or mountain guide offfices.
Alpine Emergency tel no: 140 |
Climbing trails on the north side of the Dachstein
To view an enlarged version please click on the panoramic map below.
Level of difficulty ratings for climbing trails
The rating of difficulty levels during the course of a climbing trail, as well as on the climbing routes, are subject to external factors and can therefore only be a rough guide. Attempts have been made to bring the problematics of subjectivity of levels of difficulty in line with standardised rating system. This is complicated by subjective factors such as body build, technique, training standard, equipment, physical condition, as well as objective conditons (weather, wetness, ice, height, length etc.). The following 5-tiered scale of difficulty for climbing trails has already been used in some new climbing books and has been extended and more accurately defined with the help of climbing experts.
A = EASY (green)
Simple, secured routes. Flat (longer) or vertical (short) ladders and iron grips mostly in not very steep terrain. Isolated spots can be exposed, but easy to walk on (e.g. rock bands, small rope bridges). The terrain is also easy accomplished (exception: ladders over small wall steps) and has good treads and grips. In general no climbing securings necessary if sure-footed and have head for heights. For children and beginners possibly a short securing rope required. |
B = MEDIUM DIFFICULTY (blue)
Somewhat steeper rock terrain with small-stepped, exposed passages in parts. Vertical, longer ladders, iron grips, treads or chains. Some passage are demanding and strenuous. Without securings the rock technical level of difficulty can be between 2nd and 3rd level. Many expert mountaineers use basic climbing equipment. For beginners and children climbing equipment is definitely recommended and on longer climbs a short safety rope. |
C = DIFFICULUT (yellow)
Steep to very steep rock terrain. Mostly small-stepped passages, which are almost always exposed. Overhanging ladders, ice grips and treads, which may be somewhat further apart (especially for smaller people and children). Often vertical sections, secured only with steel cable. In parts very strenuous. Without securings many passages would be rated 3rd or 4th level of difficulty. Longer upward climbs at this level rank amongst the grand climbing tours. Beginners and children are recommended to have rope securings to an experienced partner. Self-securings also recommended for experiencecd climbers. |
D = VERY DIFFICULT (red)
Vertical, often overhanging terrain. Iron grips and treads are far apart. Very exposed and steep rock, which is mostly only secured with a steel cable. Longer vertical to overhanging passages requiring a high degree of arm strength and a good physical condition. Sometimes in combination with easy climbing (1-2), which must be undertaken without securings. Even for the very experienced climber complete climbing equipment is obligatory (mountain boots with grip soles an advantage). Unsuitable for beginners. Usually undertaken roped together. |
E = EXTREMELY DIFFICULT (black)
Demanding extreme strength, sure-footedness (climbing shoes!) and head for heights. This level of difficulty is very rare on climbing trails. Roping together obligatory; mostly combined with climbing. Otherwise all specifications as described under "D" but to a higher degree. |
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